AHAs and BHAs: Which Exfoliant for You

Published March 1, 2026

Glycolic, lactic or salicylic? Match the chemical exfoliant to your skin and concern, then use it sparingly.

Chemical Beats Physical

Chemical exfoliants dissolve the bonds between dead surface cells, revealing smoother, brighter skin without the micro-tears that harsh scrubs can cause. They give more even, controllable results than gritty physical exfoliants, which is why dermatologists generally favour them. The two main families are alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, each suited to different skin and goals. Choosing the right one, at the right frequency, is the whole game.

AHAs: For Tone and Texture

Alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble and work on the skin's surface, making them ideal for dullness, uneven tone, fine lines and rough texture. Glycolic is the smallest molecule and the most potent, delivering strong brightening but more potential for irritation. Lactic acid is larger, gentler and mildly hydrating, which makes it a great starting point for sensitive or dry skin. If your main concerns are radiance and smoothness, an AHA is your pick.

BHAs: For Oil and Breakouts

Salicylic acid, the main beta hydroxy acid, is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate into the pores and clear out the sebum and debris that cause blackheads and breakouts. That makes it the go-to for oily, congested and acne-prone skin. It is also anti-inflammatory, so it calms the redness around blemishes as it works. If you battle clogged pores and shine, a BHA addresses the root rather than just the surface.

Combination and Specialty Acids

Some products blend AHAs and BHAs, or include gentler options like mandelic acid, a larger AHA that suits sensitive and darker skin tones with less irritation. PHAs such as gluconolactone are gentler still, hydrating as they exfoliate, ideal for reactive skin. Azelaic acid, while technically different, also smooths and brightens while calming redness. Matching the acid to your tolerance and concern matters more than chasing the strongest option.

How Often to Exfoliate

The single biggest mistake is over-exfoliating, which strips the barrier and leaves skin red, tight, sensitised and paradoxically dull. Most people only need a chemical exfoliant one to three times a week, not daily, and sensitive skin even less. Start once a week and build slowly while watching how your skin responds. If you feel persistent stinging, tightness or see increased sensitivity, you are doing it too often.

What Not to Pair It With

Exfoliating acids should not be layered with retinol or strong vitamin C on the same night, as the combined load overwhelms the skin and triggers irritation. Alternate them on separate evenings instead. Crucially, exfoliation makes skin far more sun-sensitive, so daily sunscreen is essential while you use acids. Skipping SPF after exfoliating can worsen the very pigmentation you are trying to fade.

Reading Your Skin

Choose by concern and type: glycolic for resilient skin wanting maximum brightening, lactic or mandelic for sensitive and dry skin, salicylic for oily and acne-prone skin. If you are unsure, start with the gentlest effective option and a low frequency. Healthy exfoliated skin looks smooth and luminous, not red and raw. Let your skin's reaction guide you rather than a fixed schedule.

Preview the Smooth Result

Done right, exfoliation reveals the kind of smooth, glowing, even-toned skin that makeup glides over and light bounces off. The GlowMaxing app lets you preview that polished, glow-up finish on your own selfie, giving you a target to aim for as you dial in the right acid and frequency. Use it as motivation to exfoliate smartly rather than aggressively. Less, but consistent, is how you get glass-smooth skin without the burn.